Legend has it that mapo tofu emerged sometime during the Qing dynasty at the central Chengdu restaurant of a couple named Chen, which became famous for the unique way it served tofu. The name comes from Mrs Chen’s pockmarked face — ma 麻 — and po 婆 meaning an old woman.
Mapo tofu — even though tofu is the main ingredient — is actually not a vegetarian dish as westerners might think. It would not be complete without the minced pork or beef. Trust me: when I first got to China, I asked for mapo tofu without meat because I was vegetarian at the time, and the result was either the cooks thinking I was crazy or a dish that just tasted like it was missing something. It didn’t take long for me to give up my vegetarianism in exchange for indulgence in some of the most delicious foods in the world. The fat extracted from the pork during the cooking process gives it that perfect savory flavor that not only pulls the rich, bold gravy together but complements the spicy flavors of the chili oil and numbing Sichuan peppercorn powder dusted on top.
Tell your taxi driver to take you to Chen Mapo Tofu and he will know exactly where to go in a city with thousands of restaurants. Named after the original Chens who invented the dish, Chen Mapo Tofu is rumored to have the best in the world. It’s been more than a year since I ate there, but I remember how I felt after the first bite: like I may never indulge in something so good again.
As soon as I returned to the States, I began experimenting with recipes at home. It’s taken me over a year, but after trying probably more than 10 different versions of mapo tofu, I’ve identified what are my personal favorite techniques to making a delicious mapo tofu in your American kitchen.
Mapo Tofu
Ingredients
1 package soft tofu
100g minced pork
3 tbsp neutral oil
1 tbsp doubanjiang chili bean paste
1 tbsp minced garlic
1 tbsp minced ginger
1-2 tsp crushed sichuan chili flakes
4-8 whole sichuan peppercorns
⅓ cup chicken or vegetable broth
1 tsp cornstarch
1 tsp water
Sliced scallions for garnish
Sichuan peppercorn powder for garnish
- Start by making a chili oil directly in the pan. Pour the neutral oil in the pan and set the stove to medium-high heat. Add the chili flakes and peppercorns depending on your spice level and stir for a few minutes or until red oil forms.
- Add the garlic and ginger and stir fry until aromatic. Then add the minced pork and cook until browned.
- Add the stock and mix and bring the mixture up to a boil. Then add the soft tofu by cubing it directly into the pan. You can see this method in this video.
- Stir by pushing everything with a spoon or spatula so as not to break the soft tofu. Let cook for about 5-10 minutes until the liquid mixture has reduced a little bit and prepare the water and cornstarch mixture.
- Add the water and cornstarch mixture in three separate batches, mixing the mapo tofu in between pours to slowly thicken the sauce and let it coat the tofu.
- Remove from the pan and serve topped with Sichuan peppercorn powder and fresh scallions on top and rice on the side.
Until next time,
Jordyn Haime (韩新慧)